The Financial Times, June 2006
“Guest of the world’s greatest opera houses and renowned interpreter of 20th century classics, Paris based Semyon Bychkov is chief conductor of WDR Symphony Orchestra Cologne. Next month, he conducts Lohengrin in Vienna:
‘Perhaps because I was born in St.Petersburg, whose architecture is heavily influenced by that of France and Italy, I feel huge affinity with the scale and spirit of Paris. And now that I am no longer music director of the Orchestre de Paris, the responsibility I used to associate with this city has lifted. Homecoming is all too infrequent and always special.
My weekend could just as easily begin on a Tuesday, as everything depends on concert schedules. But one thing remains constant: the day starts with freshly squeezed orange juice and croissants from my favourite pâtissier, Stohrer. If the weather is good, I’ll breakfast outdoors in the secluded courtyard of our 16th century house in the Marais district of Paris.
Since my professional life is so hectic, it is simple pleasures that make the greatest treats. After breakfast, I might walk to a breathtakingly restored palazzo nearby, which houses Jean Paul Gaultier’s showrooms. He is an extraordinary talent, and designed my concert clothes. It’s not so easy. You have to consider movement, breathability, durability – and I wanted something different; there are too many penguins on stage. Or I might go to Charvet, where I buy my shirts, and choose fabrics. They will spend hours explaining about different types of cotton. Like so much in Paris, you get a real sense of tradition and attachment to quality.
Lunch will be a simple affair at the Cafe Beaubourg. You get all sorts here, and nobody cares who you are. I sometimes bring my mother. Despite her highly critical palate, she has never found cause for complaint. Afterwards, I might visit Mandarina Duck, as I’m forever on the lookout for that perfect piece of luggage. I haven’t found it yet, but Mandarina Duck always has interesting designs. I’ll make a detour to Maison Martin Margiela, a young Belgian designer who is anti-establishment and publicity-shy. He makes original, very wearable clothes.
Musicians are often surprised to find me attending performances for pleasure -but why would I not choose a métier that is also my passion? So I might go to the Opera National de Paris at the Bastille or the Théâtre du Châtelet. If my wife [the pianist Marielle Labeque] is in town, we will have friends round for dinner. Many of our guests will be musicians, actors and artists, but we find it equally fascinating to spend time with friends from very different fields. My contribution to dinner will be cheeses from Barthelemy, wines from Maison Legrand, and macaroons to die for, courtesy of Pierre Herme.
Sundays are leisurely. Last year, I suddenly decided to change the whole look of the house. My tastes evolved from heavy and ornate to Zen-like simplicity, and this transformation has made home much more serene. I’ll scan the culture and sports pages from various newspapers, and then perhaps play through scores on the piano – Lohengrin is my current obsession: an astonishing work, prefiguring Parsifal – or listen to the latest CDs. After a light lunch, I often go for a long walk. It is unsophisticated pleasures I cherish: strolling along the banks of the Seine, browsing the bouquinistes for books in my native Russian, and dreaming that I will have time to read them all. Somehow, I always seem to end up on the Ile Saint-Louis, where the spirit of Victor Hugo lives on – though I suspect my boomerang instincts have more to do with Berthillon, the best glacier in the world. I return home laden with tubs of ice cream aux griottes.
All too soon, the weekend is over. L’Ami Louis is a favourite dinner haunt -a classic Parisian restaurant serving traditional cuisine. I’ll order its huge snails, asparagus, perhaps some chicken, a nice bottle of bordeaux. Keep it simple – till Monday, at least.’”